"Even though Kristen hadn't touched a surfboard in years, she looked as though she had never stopped. She inspired us all. But Kristen wasn't always up for it ; her body had its limits." Told in a series of alternating chapters, Aj Dungo delves into the origins and evolution of surf by looking back at the sport's greatest heroes ; while reflecting on his own personal narrative of love, loss, and the solace of surfing.